Specifications
Documented engine options
These are model and configuration references. Confirm the fitted engine from its identification plate.
D1305-E4-D36R · 3 cylinders
- HSD; gross engine rating
D1305-E4-D26Q · 3 cylinders
- HSDC; gross engine rating
- HSDCC; gross engine rating
Safety Recalls
Agricultural tractor.
Die Radnaben an der Vorderachse können brechen, dies kann zu unsicheren Fahrzuständen oder dem Verlust eines Vorderrades führen.
Die Radnaben an der Vorderachse können brechen, dies kann zu unsicheren Fahrzuständen oder dem Verlust eines Vorderrades führen.
Die Radnaben an der Vorderachse können brechen, dies kann zu unsicheren Fahrzuständen oder dem Verlust eines Vorderrades führen.
Known Issues
Mid-mount PTO shaft disconnect collar is positioned too close to the U-joint, causing it to flop around when disconnecting. The design with super long splines and no lock allows the shaft to slide freely. User notes the collar-style disconnect (with ball bearings) is unthoughtful engineering.
Manual specifies using tie wraps for hydraulic hoses to blower chute instead of providing proper hangers. Other hoses on subframe and 4-point have dedicated hangers, creating inconsistent design.
Not sure if I was given a faulty product. Straight from the dealer, no other owners. So the problem I have is with the attachment that connects the tractor to the snow plow. Today I took it out for the first time and saw it was leaking badly. I brought it back to the shop and noticed the hydraulic fluid on the cylinder (see pic) but under closer inspection it seems to be the hydraulic line on the top, and here’s the kicker..it’s leaking on both sides! Do they normally fail on both sides? Could it have over pressurized? My dealership is a pain to get to, and they refuse to pick it up to take a look at. Is changing this hydraulic connection doable for an amateur? Or rather “these” connections. Do I need specific fittings or are they generic? And should I put a specific thread tape on them?
My LX2610 shut down mid use, the engine coughs and splutters when I turn the key, but won’t actually start up, kinda like it would do if I were out of gas. The fuel gauge shows I have a little over a quarter of a tank, and a DIY dip-stick confirms this. I tried pulling out the fuel filter to see what that looked like, and it looked fine- no gunk or anything in the cup. When I replaced it however, instead of filling back up quickly, fuel was just dripping into it (maybe a tablespoon’s worth dripped in over the course of a few minutes?). So I disconnected the line that brings fuel from the tank to the filter to see what was going on there, and instead of flowing freely, it was just dripping out of that line. So, if I’m understanding the machine correctly, there’s something that’s preventing the fuel from sitting in the tank from flowing through that line (either a clog in the tank or the line, right?). I’ve considered diesel biofilm/algae, but I can’t seem to find any sign of it anywhere else (nothing thick/gunky coming up from inside the tank with the DIY dipstick or in the fuel filter)- but maybe I’m not looking for the right thing? Does anyone have any suggestions as to what my next steps should be? Cause at this point all I know to do is call the folks at my local kubota service desk and ask them to schedule a pick up.
Market Value
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Hours Benchmark
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